DIY Clutch Delay valve Removal

After further reviewing of the posts provided by @webby about Blackstone reports on amsoil, ill be changing my Amsoil MTF to Honda OEM MTF immediately untill further notice with Amsoil MTF. Im a strong believer in them but will give the benefit of the doubt by waiting out some future results.
 
Crap, should've reviewed Royal purples website before I got the Synchromax stuff... Now I'm wondering how long I should run this stuff. Hell, I may even swap it before winter hits because I don't want it sitting in there long.

When I mentioned the results of it a few posts back, that was with < 50 miles on it. I clocked nearly ~650 miles in 1 day driving to a event and back home. Although mostly highway driving. The car sat till the next day when I had a appointment, drove and the transmission felt clunky again, that was even after (I assume) it was at operating temperature driving across town

Looks like I may be ordering some Redline 50204 MTL. I can only blame myself for not looking into the RP I got not being for LSD types. God dammit

EDIT: Checked my records, I have a total of 717 miles on RP Synchromax
 
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SavageWS6 said:
Crap, should've reviewed Royal purples website before I got the Synchromax stuff... Now I'm wondering how long I should run this stuff. Hell, I may even swap it before winter hits because I don't want it sitting in there long.

When I mentioned the results of it a few posts back, that was with < 50 miles on it. I clocked nearly ~650 miles in 1 day driving to a event and back home. Although mostly highway driving. The car sat till the next day when I had a appointment, drove and the transmission felt clunky again, that was even after (I assume) it was at operating temperature driving across town

Looks like I may be ordering some Redline 50204 MTL. I can only blame myself for not looking into the RP I got not being for LSD types. God dammit

EDIT: Checked my records, I have a total of 717 miles on RP Synchromax
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Honestly i wouldnt purchase anything other then Honda OEM MTF because thats the only fluid they have lab results on that says it doesnt ruin out transmissions. as for everything else. theres a slew of people in that discussion that are trying and sending in lab samples. or do it yourself. but the redline stuff drive it for like 5 thousand miles and send in a sample if it comes back bad, then had that Honda OEM MTF ready to install immediately and post the results so someone else doesnt make the mistake
 
Back to the good ole' Transmission fluid debate! Got my results in for the Honda MTF factory fill.

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So as someone new to manual transmissions but understands the proper operation of them very well. Is it better for me to continue getting the "feel" for it with the CDV in or out? Just wondering what would help me learn the "true" feel of driving a stick or is the CDV a good beginners tool? After reading all the posts it seems like for advanced/veteran stick drivers it is more of a hassle than a help. Also new to the site by the way!

Thanks for any responses!
 
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00Bredren said:
So as someone new to manual transmissions but understands the proper operation of them very well. Is it better for me to continue getting the "feel" for it with the CDV in or out? Just wondering what would help me learn the "true" feel of driving a stick or is the CDV a good beginners too? After reading all the posts it seems like for advanced/veteran stick drivers it is more of a hassle than a help. Also new to the site by the way!

Thanks for any responses!
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When I first started driving this i wish i knew about this CDV delete because i would have deleted it from day one. It'll help prevent premature wear, and provide precise feedback to what the clutch is doing when rolling out of first. Plus less slipping when power shifting.... all in all its a must do!
 
PASCIAK said:
When I first started driving this i wish i knew about this CDV delete because i would have deleted it from day one. It'll help prevent premature wear, and provide precise feedback to what the clutch is doing when rolling out of first. Plus less slipping when power shifting.... all in all its a must do!
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Gotcha! Definitely will try to get this taken care of ASAP because it really makes it hard to shift as expected. I feel like I'm driving a different car every take off lol
 
squiggy said:
If a tech notices, yes, but Honda would have to prove that it was the cause of any issue.
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Exactly, they would need to see or verify the CDV has been removed. Even after verifying its been removed they'd have to prove that what ever problem is going on with your clutch or tranny is a direct result of removing your CDV. if anything removing that CDV with help prevent any negative/premature wear.

Make sure when you decide to do this followed by removing the CDV you also replace the clutch line with the PRL stainless steel clutch line and also flush the clutch reservoir with new Synthetic DOT4 fluid to get the best/optimum performance or results to this mod.
 
Can you link the prl stainless steel clutch line please ive been searching for it and I can only find one called "russel stainless steel clutch line" also is the dot4 fluid for breaks and clutch or is there 2 different ones?
@PASCIAK
 
hotdogjohnny said:
^^^IIRC that rubber coated one only relaces the short line from driver-side fender bracket over to the transmission bracket. You still have the line from trans to slave cyl. The PRL replaces everything from the fender to the slave cyl. It's a great stainless steel straight shot. Here's the link: http://prlmotorsports.com/store/prl-motorsports-stainless-clutch-line-for-battery-relocation/
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ac3jason said:
@jonmyrotten so thats the steel clutch line they said I need? It says its for battery relocation.
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@ac3jason here's the link from earlier on in this thread. That old link doesn't work but as you can see it's for the same PRL stainless that I posted.

Here's the link to the shorter P2R stainless steel clutch line:
http://www.powerrevracing.com/product-p/p761_002.htm
 
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