DIY Clutch Delay valve Removal

Hey guys i just installed the prl cai and the CDV delete along with it. To bleed the clutch line i removed rubber cap pumped a few times then lossened the bleed valve pumped a few more times then tightened it back up and capped off with rubber. My clutch comes back normally now. It engages really early ( like an inch as soon as im releasing the clutch. Anyone else have sismilar experience. Another thing i want tofet resolved is squeaking sounds on my clutch when i press/depress. What could that be?? Help please. (I have a 13 si for reference)
 
Had the same happen to mine.
It needs to be bleeded more, make sure you pump the clutch pedal and keep it to the floor, open and close bleeder, once closed you can release pedal.
I also bought a $5 one man bleeder and it really helped.

Anyone correct me if I am wrong.
 
If you don't have a vacuum pump or speed bleeder, open the bleeder, depress the clutch to the floor, close the bleeder then pull the clutch pedal forward. Repeat until there are no more air bubbles coming out. One thing that helps to see if any more air is coming out is to get a length of clear tubing. Also make sure the reservoir is full at all times. That's how I did it the first time. Second time around I used a speed bleeder. This is the website I got mine from.
jsyn77 said:
Front……SB1010

Rear…….SB8125L

Clutch….SB8125L



When ordering Speed Bleeder, consider also ordering the Bag and Hose Combo. The bag is like an IV bag. It comes with 30 inches of silicone hose. When one end of the hose is attached to the bag and the other end is attached to the Speed Bleeder, it makes the messy job of bleeding brakes neat and clean. The hose and bag are reusable.



Speed Bleeder is also available in 303 Stainless Steel. The stainless steel bleeder will never rust or corrode and is polished to a brilliant gloss for the custom look. To order the stainless steel version go towww.speedbleeder.com click on “Secure Ordering” at the top of the order page you will see a selection “Stainless Steel”. Click on this heading and all the sizes available in stainless steel will drop down.
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Gilles LeClair said:
Had the same happen to mine.
It needs to be bleeded more, make sure you pump the clutch pedal and keep it to the floor, open and close bleeder, once closed you can release pedal.
I also bought a $5 one man bleeder and it really helped.

Anyone correct me if I am wrong.
Click to expand...

thanks i'll definitely give that a try once the car cools down a bit !
 
Sarcras said:
If you don't have a vacuum pump or speed bleeder, open the bleeder, depress the clutch to the floor, close the bleeder then pull the clutch pedal forward. Repeat until there are no more air bubbles coming out. One thing that helps to see if any more air is coming out is to get a length of clear tubing. Also make sure the reservoir is full at all times. That's how I did it the first time. Second time around I used a speed bleeder. This is the website I got mine from.
Click to expand...
thanks makes sense im about to get this done!
 
I tried to get the clip out for like 30 minutes the other day. Just would not come out. I'm give it another shot in a few weeks when I have a vacation.
 
ron v said:
I tried to get the clip out for like 30 minutes the other day. Just would not come out. I'm give it another shot in a few weeks when I have a vacation.
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That clip is a royal pia to get out. Sad day when you work on trying to get that thing out for a half hour with no luck and your wife comes out and gets it out in under a minute. :pat:
 
Sarcras said:
That clip is a royal pia to get out. Sad day when you work on trying to get that thing out for a half hour with no luck and your wife comes out and gets it out in under a minute. :pat:
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I would have sold the car right then.

It was right there. Like bending to where I thought it was gonna pop out then it popped back into place. After that I stuck the pick in my finger and I was over it. Ima take it off and have my neighbor do it while I install some other parts. And that's my excuse. Lol.
 
ron v said:
It was right there. Like bending to where I thought it was gonna pop out then it popped back into place. After that I stuck the pick in my finger and I was over it. Ima take it off and have my neighbor do it while I install some other parts. And that's my excuse. Lol.
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Sounds like a good plan to me!
 
ron v said:
It was right there. Like bending to where I thought it was gonna pop out then it popped back into place. After that I stuck the pick in my finger and I was over it. Ima take it off and have my neighbor do it while I install some other parts. And that's my excuse. Lol.
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Funny enough this is exactly what happened to me...still took the neighbor about half an hour of fiddling with it. Before I stuck myself with one pick, I broke a different one.
 
I have been wanting to do this but I just saw the other day that some people were saying there is also another delay valve in the CMC. I saw Ktuned apparently makes one with out anybody have any truth or experience to this?
 
I can not remember were on this forum I saw the posts but I have read that people that have replaced the CMC with an aftermarket one like that one did not notice a difference. If I have time to look for it today, I will repost it.
 
TF_FB6 said:
I have been wanting to do this but I just saw the other day that some people were saying there is also another delay valve in the CMC. I saw Ktuned apparently makes one with out anybody have any truth or experience to this?
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The delay valve is inside the slave cylinder for the CMC; if you only replace the CMC the slave cylinder will remain and it won't feel any different since the delay valve is still in the line. You would have to replace the master and the slave in order to get rid of the delay valve without opening anything up to take the valve out.

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I'm gonna give this another go later. CAI gives me easy access so I'm not gonna take no for an answer.
 
PainlessCandy said:
The delay valve is inside the slave cylinder for the CMC; if you only replace the CMC the slave cylinder will remain and it won't feel any different since the delay valve is still in the line. You would have to replace the master and the slave in order to get rid of the delay valve without opening anything up to take the valve out.

This is what ktuned says its a little different but just wondering if its true or there are just wanting more money lol
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"If you look at the CMC on these cars more closely, you'll notice that all of these models have a triangular shaped feedback plate positioned at the very end of the cylinder. This plate is basically a secondary valve that was designed to slow down the clutch engagement and reduce shock to the clutch itself and the surrounding drivetrain parts. This setup might be perfectly fine for people that just drive their cars for simple daily use, but the delayed engagement can cause wear to the synchros and possibly even the gears on performance applications. The reason is fairly simple, the factory CMC delays the clutch operation, so it does not open fast enough to keep up with a fast shift. This means that pressure is being applied to the transmission synchros during the shift, before they are ready for the actual gear change." Ktuned
 
TF_FB6 said:
"If you look at the CMC on these cars more closely, you'll notice that all of these models have a triangular shaped feedback plate positioned at the very end of the cylinder. This plate is basically a secondary valve that was designed to slow down the clutch engagement and reduce shock to the clutch itself and the surrounding drivetrain parts. This setup might be perfectly fine for people that just drive their cars for simple daily use, but the delayed engagement can cause wear to the synchros and possibly even the gears on performance applications. The reason is fairly simple, the factory CMC delays the clutch operation, so it does not open fast enough to keep up with a fast shift. This means that pressure is being applied to the transmission synchros during the shift, before they are ready for the actual gear change." Ktuned
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I had not seen that Ktuned quote, nor anyone else mention anything about a valve in/on the master cylinder. I also don't remember the CMC having a triangular end on it, so this might be referring to regular civics and not the Si. As far as I know, the Si only has the one delay valve, and it is the plastic floater piece inside the slave cylinder. If in doubt, check out replacement CMC parts; Nissin makes the CMC for the Si as well as pretty much all other Honda applications (if I'm not mistaken).

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