DIY Clutch Delay valve Removal

looking at this further, @trustdestruction does appear to have the correct OEM parts but i believe he in correctly quoted the thread diameter/pitch.

Front Brake - M10x1.00 33mm long
Rear Brake - M8x1.25 28mm long
Clutch - M8x1.25 24mm long

So @jsyn77's SB numbers should be correct. What was wrong with those sizes?

edit: SB8125 (no L) should work for the rear brake and clutch
 
dpetro1 said:
@JonnyRotten
What is wrong with the ones you ordered?
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I haven't even opened the packages but they don't look right.
I spoke to Whitney at Speed Bleeder and she told me that the rears were wrong (even after I had a note on my order with what car I was ordering these for)
I just don't want to get into removing the factory brake and clutch bleeders only to find out that the replacements are the wrong sizes.
I had another search on the forum and found @trustdestruction had posted something different than @jsyn77
So I guess it's the conflicting information that's bothering me.
I'd like to hear from someone that can verify that the Speed Bleeder part numbers are the correct ones because they've installed them and they had no issues.
 
Dar-Dar said:
To be honest, there's not much of a difference between stainless steel line brands besides price and the brand shown. This is what I have (purchased Aug 2014) and it is only a fraction of the cost,

View: https://www.amazon.com/Russell-684740-Brake-Line-Kit/dp/B001B82GES/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1488637336&vehicle=2007-59-752-823--7-6-5-8068-2449-1-1-2825--1-0&sr=1-1&ymm=2007%3Ahonda%3Acivic&keywords=stainless+steel+clutch+line


I have a Russell clutch line for my Si and Goodridge for my E36 M3.
Click to expand...

Is this like the PRL that replaces everything from the fender to the cylinder?
 
JonnyRotten said:
Has anyone had any experience with the K-Tuned stainless steel clutch line? :feedback:

http://k-tuned.3dcartstores.com/Stainless-Steel-Clutch-Line-Kit_p_44.html
Click to expand...

Dar-Dar said:
To be honest, there's not much of a difference between stainless steel line brands besides price and the brand shown. This is what I have (purchased Aug 2014) and it is only a fraction of the cost,

View: https://www.amazon.com/Russell-684740-Brake-Line-Kit/dp/B001B82GES/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1488637336&vehicle=2007-59-752-823--7-6-5-8068-2449-1-1-2825--1-0&sr=1-1&ymm=2007%3Ahonda%3Acivic&keywords=stainless+steel+clutch+line


I have a Russell clutch line for my Si and Goodridge for my E36 M3.
Click to expand...

ron v said:
I have the Russell myself and love it for the price. Easy to install to if you have an aftermarket intake.
Click to expand...
The K-Tuned stainless steel line replaces the whole clutch line from the master cylinder to the slave cylinder. It becomes one line which is nice.
That's why I was asking if anyone had any experience installing it.
I'm wondering how everything lines up etc. or if anyone had any difficulty with replacing the whole line on our cars.
 
JonnyRotten said:
The K-Tuned stainless steel line replaces the whole clutch line from the master cylinder to the slave cylinder. It becomes one line which is nice.
That's why I was asking if anyone had any experience installing it.
I'm wondering how everything lines up etc. or if anyone had any difficulty with replacing the whole line on our cars.
Click to expand...
I finally took out my air box to have a look at where the CMC is located and to see where the clutch line is routed so I could decide whether or not to use the K-Tuned SS line that I purchased, seeing as it is designed to replace the whole line.
After seeing where the CMC is located and that it's not that easy to access, I've decided to just replace the rubber line with the PRL SS line.
There's no real benefit on our cars to replacing the entire clutch line and it looks like a lot of extra work that's unnecessary.
From everything I've read in this thread, the best option is the PRL SS line IMO.
Once I get the new SS line I will do the CDV delete.
 
ron v said:
Have u done the delete yet? Thoughts?
Click to expand...
Finally got around to doing the CDV delete.
The clutch feels a lot better.
I also replaced the transmission fluid at the same time.
I don't have the 1st to 2nd shift grind any more but I'm not sure if it's because of the CDV delete or the tranny fluid replacement or both.
Anyway, it's seems to be gone thankfully.
 
A lot of people would say it's because of the delete but it could be a combo of both. I haven't grinded once since I did the delete but since then I've been changing my tranny oil every other oil change. Only problem I have now is missing 3rd lol.
 
I would have to say that the hardest part of this whole process is first as everyone says, getting the C clip off. I went and bought a set of picks as shown by the OP and those work well. You just have to keep working at it. I think the problem I was having was that I was trying to pry the clip from underneath one of the ends. Once I pushed the pointy tip in from the top of the clip, it popped right out.
After that I had a hell of a time getting the cap off. My smaller set of needle nose pliers were a little worn out at the tip so they wouldn't grip the cap to pull it out.
The third and final PITA was getting the actual CDV out of the body of the slave cylinder. I used a thin piece of wire that I pushed through from the end where the hydraulic line attaches to push it out.
Hope that helps anyone that is considering doing the CDV delete.
I would have to agree with everyone else that this is a great mod.
 
I clamped the slave with a vice and went at it with picks. Worked awesome. But yea. That clip is still a Mitch to get off.
 
JonnyRotten said:
I would have to say that the hardest part of this whole process is first as everyone says, getting the C clip off. I went and bought a set of picks as shown by the OP and those work well. You just have to keep working at it. I think the problem I was having was that I was trying to pry the clip from underneath one of the ends. Once I pushed the pointy tip in from the top of the clip, it popped right out.
After that I had a hell of a time getting the cap off. My smaller set of needle nose pliers were a little worn out at the tip so they wouldn't grip the cap to pull it out.
The third and final PITA was getting the actual CDV out of the body of the slave cylinder. I used a thin piece of wire that I pushed through from the end where the hydraulic line attaches to push it out.
Hope that helps anyone that is considering doing the CDV delete.
I would have to agree with everyone else that this is a great mod.
Click to expand...
I couldn't get the cap off either, so I ended up tapping it out from the back with a mallet and screwdriver.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk
 
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