DIY Clutch Delay valve Removal

That's about right. It's pretty much the same as bleeding the brake fluid. Except that the clutch pedal has the tendency to stay on the floor when depressed, unlike the brake pedals, so you'll have to lift it up.
 
Dar-Dar said:
That's about right. It's pretty much the same as bleeding the brake fluid. Except that the clutch pedal has the tendency to stay on the floor when depressed, unlike the brake pedals, so you'll have to lift it up.
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I forgot about that :hail: Dar-Dar.
 
hi everyone which part is to bleed the clutch. i know its a stupid question but just dont wana mess this up. and how do i know that the clutch is fully bleeded? someone help thank you.
 
I use a clear vinyl hose so I can see if there's air bubbles going through.
 
Temel Uzun said:
hi everyone which part is to bleed the clutch. i know its a stupid question but just dont wana mess this up. and how do i know that the clutch is fully bleeded? someone help thank you.
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I would go to youtube and watch a few videos on clutch bleeding. You'll see it with your own eyes.
 
well my neighbor is mechanic me and him did it together it feels fine. i dont exactly know what you mean bleed clutch more? we did it couple times to make sure and top the fluid with dot 4. and everything seems and feel good.
 
For those of you who have done this mod, how does this come apart (see circled area)? I like to know these things in advance. Also, I'm putting in a stainless steel clutch line from PRL while it's apart. How much brake fluid is likely to be lost when doing this? Just what's in the clutch line, or does it gush from both open locations so that I should be prepared for that? Lastly, I bought Honda DOT3-DOT4 brake fluid for my wife's Element a few weeks back. That's the stuff, right?

Clutch CDV.jpg
 
The piston on the slave cylinder pushes on that lever on the clutch housing, but the two are not actually fastened together with anything. The tension from the slave cylinder and the piston holds itself in place in the "socket" on that lever. If you remove the two bolts holding the slave cylinder onto the transmission (and of course the hydraulic line), the entire slave cylinder comes right off without any extra work in terms its contact with that lever.

When doing the clutch line you'll need only a small bottle of brake fluid. You will lose much less than that but bleeding it kinda sucks (or at least it did for me) and takes a lot more fluid than you'd think, because air gets into the entire system from both ends when you remove the stock line and replace with the PRL.

See my DIY for pics on the line install.
 
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Images backed up to the gallery. Thanks for the diy :thumb:
 
trustdestruction said:
The piston on the slave cylinder pushes on that lever on the clutch housing, but the two are not actually fastened together with anything. The tension from the slave cylinder and the piston holds itself in place in the "socket" on that lever. If you remove the two bolts holding the slave cylinder onto the transmission (and of course the hydraulic line), the entire slave cylinder comes right off without any extra work in terms its contact with that lever.

When doing the clutch line you'll need only a small bottle of brake fluid. You will lose much less than that but bleeding it kinda sucks (or at least it did for me) and takes a lot more fluid than you'd think, because air gets into the entire system from both ends when you remove the stock line and replace with the PRL.

See my DIY for pics on the line install.
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Terrific reply, Thank you!
 
So today I removed the intake and battery tray (Ricspec'd), replaced the soft clutch line and the hard line at the slave cylinder, which also deleted the clutch to transmission bracket, and replaced it with PRL's stainless steel clutch line for it's battery relocate kit (which they sell separately). I also removed the slave cylinder and performed the CDV delete. Buttoned it up, had a neighbor help me bleed it, and it is Awesome! Great DIY here and the clutch line DIY helped too. Thanks Mikex18 and trustdestruction.

PRL Clutch line2.jpg
 
dlkim0.jpg
zip tie line and that pos bracket.
 
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