8th Gen hello from a 8th gen owner.

Me either but i do have quite a few things to sell. Oem trunk oem, tail lights with red tint over reverse, driver side oem fender, driver side oem headlight, oem shifter mechanism, crush a 90's truck,sell the tranmission out of it, oem rear shocks with 103k, eibach sportline springs, skunk2 short shift adapter, type r shift knob maybe more.
 
If anyone can help it would be appreciated, im going to pick up a complete 06 k24a2 and im trying to figure out what header i can use skunk2 says the alpha wont work but its sopose to be the same as megapower just different metal. And im currently running the kidd racing header and i dont think it will work. Any help would be appreciated thanks guys.
 
ended up getting a k24a2,
I'm currently in the process of pulling my engine out by myself and this is my first engine pull, its a little overwhelming. Right now I'm gonna finish the subframe drop tomorrow morning and get the header off and the axles them it will be read to pull as far as I know there isn't a DIY so I'm a little lost and as I said this is my first pull so I'm kinda shooting in the dark on all this but I have a really good idea on everything that I'm needing to do.

Anyway I have bought the following

-K24a2
-TSX HG
-CRV mount
-ARP Head Studs
-Go power V1R-2 cams
-Supertech valvetrain
-Ferrea Flat-faced Valves
-Skunk2 Megapower Header
-Type s oil pump
-Hybrid Racing TCT
-550cc Modified stock injectors

And I need to do the following in order for this to be complete and ready to install
buy valve stem seals,
buy valve guides if mine are bad,
have my head rebuilt,
buy Hasport 70a Motor mounts,

Other parts I have but need to install

-Koni Yellow/Nuespeed sport front and rear
-Replica Mugen side skirts
-Replica FD2 RR Wing with Carbon Fiber insert
-Replica Mugen RR Rear bumper lip
-8" Kicker Comp R

I'm also having my transmission looked at by someone that rebuilds transmissions and he is gonna help me figure out what all needs to be replaced so I can buy and replace.
 
Karen Henry said:
It's awesome to buy and go for ride, the images are fabulous.

:)
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Thanks man Im a little confused on what your saying. Lol


Ehtesham said:
Subscribed you. Please do share the proceedings
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Thanks its been hard doing a my first engine pull with no help and no DIY but that engine is comming out as soon as i get a truck to bring the engine lift to where im working on it at.

A update i got the wing on the way to me and the new header that will clear with the k24 is gonna be here today so thats cool now everything is getting sold soon to fund the rebuild and the last couple parts. Cant F-ing wait to have my car back i hate hoopties
 
Got the skunk2 header that will clear with the k24 the skunk2 megapower is on the right and the plm/kidd racing header is on the left several differences. But motor comes out next time i work on car as i finally got the engine lift. Getting close as hell.
 

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10 days later and the motor should come out this weekend.

Got a wing in the mail.
Also got hybrid racing TCT but no pics. Its getting close.
Trading my wheels for.some wide ones there 17x9 +25 and imma throw some 335/40-17 on them and get some camber arms. I have 2 sets of camber bolts on the way as of monday. Its comming along and i just need 325 + gas and also new timing chain and guides and valve seals but. Also if any of you have your oem dipstick because you got a different oil dipstick i need a k24 dipstick and dont wanna have to pay top dollor for that ish
Well there is my update lol
 

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Traded my wheels now im gonna be wide wheels. Lol
Gonna be rocking some 17x9 +25 on the tire that came on them 235/45-17 lol big *** meety tires. Im trying to get some money together for SPC camber arms already have camber bolts on the way as of Monday. They have good tires once they are done i plan on running one of two tire setups.
1. 245/40-17 F, 235/40-17 R.
2. 235/40-17 F&R
Havent decided yet any input welcomed.
 
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On the 9, run the 245.

The 235/40 is a better tire size but is too narrow on that rim if you really want performance over looks. I would recommend running a squared setup just to be able to do tire rotations easily.
 
But as of tomorrow I hope to have the motor out and i just need to sell a transmission and crush a truck, sell all my car parts there all for sale right now.
 
Nix said:
On the 9, run the 245.

The 235/40 is a better tire size but is too narrow on that rim if you really want performance over looks. I would recommend running a squared setup just to be able to do tire rotations easily.
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Damn thanks for that i didnt see it so i should make the 245/40 work how much camber do you think ill need to run?
 
Do fender work. Don't run excessive camber. You've got a sick build going to be cutting corners to fit wheels man. Don't mix and match stance/performance. Just my 0.02 on that but do what you like. I bet you would end up having to run like -5 to fit that wheel with that offset. I expect you will probably have to be around -2 or -3 if you do fender work though. I shaved my wifes fenders almost all the way flush and she is running -1.5 in the rear on an 18x8.75 +35 and only a 225 tire.

I wouldn't run more than -1.5 in the front and probably around -1 to just under like -0.8 in the rear to help with handling. Running -2 all the way around is going to be great for handling but kill your tires.

More negative in the front and less in the rear will help the car turn better. The rears can be shaved with a grinder if you are careful. I did my wifes car and it was much easier than expected. Just get flap discs also and sand the surface to a nice edge and then seal it with RTV goop. There is also a screw tab in the rear where the bumper and quarter panel attach. You can grind that down a lot to fit wheels without having to remove it completely although people have and have not had an issue with the panels coming apart. Another great spot for JB weld if needed.

In the front you really only have to roll the "tabs" that the fender liner clips attach to. Most likely. You may have to roll the fender with such a large tire and low offset though. The fender liner can be tucked behind the "tabs" once they are bent up. It does pull it a little taught but you can usually cheat it and maintain the liner. I'm about to cut my wifes and add a patch of plastic to extend them so they fit a little better.
 
Nix said:
Do fender work. Don't run excessive camber. You've got a sick build going to be cutting corners to fit wheels man. Don't mix and match stance/performance. Just my 0.02 on that but do what you like. I bet you would end up having to run like -5 to fit that wheel with that offset. I expect you will probably have to be around -2 or -3 if you do fender work though. I shaved my wifes fenders almost all the way flush and she is running -1.5 in the rear on an 18x8.75 +35 and only a 225 tire.

I wouldn't run more than -1.5 in the front and probably around -1 to just under like -0.8 in the rear to help with handling. Running -2 all the way around is going to be great for handling but kill your tires.

More negative in the front and less in the rear will help the car turn better. The rears can be shaved with a grinder if you are careful. I did my wifes car and it was much easier than expected. Just get flap discs also and sand the surface to a nice edge and then seal it with RTV goop. There is also a screw tab in the rear where the bumper and quarter panel attach. You can grind that down a lot to fit wheels without having to remove it completely although people have and have not had an issue with the panels coming apart. Another great spot for JB weld if needed.

In the front you really only have to roll the "tabs" that the fender liner clips attach to. Most likely. You may have to roll the fender with such a large tire and low offset though. The fender liner can be tucked behind the "tabs" once they are bent up. It does pull it a little taught but you can usually cheat it and maintain the liner. I'm about to cut my wifes and add a patch of plastic to extend them so they fit a little better.
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First off thanks for the kind words.
I agree I like the looks but dont want my stuff cambered out to the max i might have to wait to roll and shave my fenders but that will be the first thing after i get it running again.
I wish you were in oklahoma so i could have you come do thst for me as i feel a little worried about it. I might end up rltrading wheel with someone so that i can run less camber because id like to be able to run like 1.5 in front and like 1 in the rear but will need different wheels for that. Ill juwt make these work then fender work, then new wheels. Lol its a never ending battle trying to get a car just how you want it.
 
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So a update, the place where I was pulling my motor out was not the best place. My tools kept disappearing, all my car parts kept getting moved, and next to no lighting. So I'm taking a loan out to have my it pulled out and and everything fixed and installed.

I have bought the following:

-K24a2
-TSX HG
-CRV mount
-ARP Head Studs
-Go power V1R-2 cams
-Supertech valvetrain
-Ferrea Flat-faced Valves
-Skunk2 Megapower Header
-Type s oil pump
-Hybrid Racing TCT
-550cc Modified stock injectors

Most recent:
-K24 timing chain
-k24 dipstick
-ZDX thermal TB gasket
-SPC rear camber arms
-Ingalls Front camber bolts (4 of them)
-Muteki lug nuts
-Supertech Viton Valve Stem Seals
-Hasport 70a Motor mounts

Other parts I have but need to install:

-Koni Yellow/Nuespeed sport front and rear
-Replica Mugen side skirts
-Replica FD2 RR Wing with Carbon Fiber insert
-Replica Mugen RR Rear bumper lip
-8" Kicker Comp R (need to have a custom box made for stock location)

Also I traded my Wheels for:
Rota Grid 2 17x9 +25
10407357_364886267027097_6168424917313685905_n.jpg

Plan on powdercoaing them gold

I plan on buying these if there is enough money left over:
245/40-17 FEDERAL SS-595 Tires
Mractory Master rebuild kit

Then when I have the money ill buy a new clutch and flywheel, then have it all installed.
 
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