Sunofwolf Stock Tuning with Hondata!

sunofwolf

sunofwolf

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Civic SI
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Coupe
I thought I would start this thread, I am totally new to tuning a Honda si, who do you think would be the best at tuning a stock 2013 Honda si ?? I don't have a laptop just a desk computer, I will buy one if I have too. I figure this is going to take a while sense I am slow at doing anything. I am looking for whatever extra power and making the car shift faster due to Honda's nanny slow down mode. I will likely ad later a full exhaust and likely other power mods, not interested in FI. Tuning for power, faster shifting and MPG if possible. I have the Hondata tuner just don't know how to make it work.:coffee::confuzzled:
 
Ok, no laptop- that saves me dough-I get one later. I guess my first step is call a tuner. The car has just a carquest air filter-does add a few hp, but I would like to be around 220hp at the wheels after some mods.:bunny:
 
You’ll need basically every bolt on part available and a proper tune to get close to 220
 
No all and one kit, oh well. I guess maybe settle for a little less:hyper:
 
Cold air intake, catless downpipe, exhaust, tune and you should hit 200+ wheel
 
What about exhaust and tune, exhaust manifold, some kind of worry free cold air intake, high flow cat. catless down pipe not too good either for the DD. Exhaust manifold maybe.
 
doesn't have to be "catless" for the downpipe.

exhaust manifold = downpipe on the si. The exhaust is cast into the head. It's a single port coming off the head on the Si. This isn't the Si head, but it looks essentially the same with the single exhaust port like this below versus a standard 4 port header.

2293650306Picture071_small.jpg


vitviper (the tuner) tested a handful of intakes and found the prl 3" to be basically the only one providing gains. I don't know what you mean by "worry free", but if you're talking about water issues, you can get something like an injen water shield cover. Just realize it's meant for water contact and not submerged in water. The intake height is like a foot from the ground anyway. If you're driving through over a foot of water and parking in it, well that's clearly not going to work.


View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=23Gy6kxbVMw
 
How does owning a laptop fix your car battery dying?
 
webby said:
How does owning a laptop fix your car battery dying?
Click to expand...

The battery didn't die. With a laptop hooked up I was able to get past the message that says to consider connecting my battery to a charging source. Without the laptop it started the first flash and never finished a flash leaving the car unable to start. Not for a lack of battery but because the flash failed and it was stuck in recovery mode. So I would have been able to continue on if I'd had a trickle charger or something of course, but I would have never seen that message from FlashPro Manager that my battery was low, and it didn't want to flash because of that.
 
:driving::drooling:I got a brand new battery and battery charger and new trickle charger coming after I ran my old one over changing the battery. How about a 1.Q300, 2.magaflow header/manafold with high flow cat and ,3. magaflow downpipe high flow cat. How much power would these make just by them self's then add them:lildevil:? And then a skunk 2 race swap kit ultra race- How much power? I would take a guess the skunk 2 race swap kit ultra race would make the most power-but where does the battery go?
 
You just need the downpipe there is not a header. If you are looking to make gains you should look at 3" exhaust and downpipe. The Q300 is a nice exhaust system sounds good and is not loud the only downside is it's not a 3" exhaust but you are only talking a couple HP.

You really don't need the Skunk2 manifold if you are not turbocharged they are a bit over kill. The RBC intake manifold is less than $250 brand new from Honda. With the intake manifold swap you gain peak power but lose bottom end torque.

The battery relocation is only for if you decide to get the CAI. It gets relocated back to the firewall and is really easy to do.
 
How much air flow does a NA 2.4 engine need? The Q300 has what size pipes-its 2.75? My own info on a turbo 2.4 mitso engine needs 2.75 inch exhaust pipes making around 300Hp as power goes up you need bigger pipes a 3". The honda si 2.4 na might only need 2.5 or less inch pipes for 100% air flow. I doubt any power loss from a 2.75 exhaust in a si 2013. What is the stock exhaust using= 2.37 piping 60mm- that actually may mean going to Q300 to 2.75 70mm does the q300 even make any more power:hmmm?:
 
2012-13 is 60mm or 2.37"
2014-15 is 64mm or 2.5"

Honda bumped up to 2.5" because the 2.37" was way to small. The 2.75" is a huge improvement alone over the factory exhaust since it is better bent and larger diameter better flowing components and lighter. 3" is good for NA and for boosted being NA the only difference you will see is a couple HP nothing you will be able to tell without a dyno.
 
Ok that clears that up a bit-ya the 2014 has a few more HP due to the exhaust, so I would see a nice gain, but what about the manifold/cat and the down pipe what are those doing too because if they are small too not good for free flowing exhaust. it looks like 3" might be the way to go, any that aren't super noisy?:wave:
 
The Full-Race cated downpipe is a massive improvement over stock due to the factory one having 2 massive cats and are extremely heavy.

The Full-Race exhaust is the one I am using being catless mine is not bad at all. On cold start it is loud but is not obnoxious or ricey the K-Tunned is supposed like the Full-Race. The quietest is the Q300 but they are only 2.75".

I made 205 whp with just the Skunk2 intake, Full-Race catless downpipe and I was Vittuned running the stock exhaust.
 
I was thinking of replace both cats with high flow and a 3" catback. I know how heavy those stock ones are as my SRT-4 had just one and it weighed a lot.
 
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