- Thread starter
- #121
xXCiviXx
Well-Known Member
You got it Pauly
xXCiviXx's 2013 DBP Si aka Alice (Picture Heavy)
- Thread starter xXCiviXx
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- Thread starter
- #122
xXCiviXx
Well-Known Member
No
It's not
Pauly99to17
Well-Known Member
If the button is not lighting up then there must be a wiring problem.
This diagram might help.
This diagram might help.
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- #124
xXCiviXx
Well-Known Member
every thing was wired to fuse #6 for power and grounded to closest to ground bolt. Everything was on when ignition was on. Once the switch came into play the lights didn't turn on. May just need to re arrange grounds or need to figure out the rest of the wiring.
Pauly99to17
Well-Known Member
Okay, here is a list of things to check.
1) Is the fuse in Fuse Tap burnt? You didn't change its position by chance? (Needs to be in the slot closest to the red wire)
2) Is the ground connection clean?
3) the green plug in the switch can move little. Take switch out of slot while testing your circuit. Wiggle the green plug up and down to ensure that this is not the cause.
4) if all of the above things are checked then we are getting into the unlikely possibilities. Maybe the lighting circuit got broken somewhere . This can be checked easily by hooking everything back up the way you had it before.
5). The last situation is the one I had and it sucked. My button/lights were working, then one day nothing. I checked all of the above possibilities for about 2 hours and couldn't find the problem. Finally I took the button apart and found that a tiny connector in the button itself needed bending down slightly to have better connect with the circuit board. I posted info. about this in the 5 pin button thread.
All that being said, If I had to guess, I would check your ground. Good luck.
1) Is the fuse in Fuse Tap burnt? You didn't change its position by chance? (Needs to be in the slot closest to the red wire)
2) Is the ground connection clean?
3) the green plug in the switch can move little. Take switch out of slot while testing your circuit. Wiggle the green plug up and down to ensure that this is not the cause.
4) if all of the above things are checked then we are getting into the unlikely possibilities. Maybe the lighting circuit got broken somewhere . This can be checked easily by hooking everything back up the way you had it before.
5). The last situation is the one I had and it sucked. My button/lights were working, then one day nothing. I checked all of the above possibilities for about 2 hours and couldn't find the problem. Finally I took the button apart and found that a tiny connector in the button itself needed bending down slightly to have better connect with the circuit board. I posted info. about this in the 5 pin button thread.
All that being said, If I had to guess, I would check your ground. Good luck.
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- #127
xXCiviXx
Well-Known Member
I know what I'm doing today lol
Pauly99to17
Well-Known Member
You Find the problem?
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- #129
xXCiviXx
Well-Known Member
Not yet. I ended up going hunting for 5 hours. I did finish bleeding my clutch after the delay valve delete and what a difference!!!
As far as @323 suggestion about taking the cover of the switch to make it fit, it still doesn't fit. And I didn't have a chance to look aat the wiring yet. I'll take care of it tomorrow since I have the day off and won't be going hunting til later
As far as @323 suggestion about taking the cover of the switch to make it fit, it still doesn't fit. And I didn't have a chance to look aat the wiring yet. I'll take care of it tomorrow since I have the day off and won't be going hunting til later
ADExternal
Lvl: 99 Modifier
Im a bit late but do you have a picture of the switch you bought? There are 3 different 5pin switch with different switch layouts that will work for our civic, one of them being oem. Im glad everyone is trying to help but it shouldnt be this complicating.
Break it down into 3 steps.
Wire Pin 1/2 between/in the circuit you want to turn on and off
Wire Pin 3 to Pin 2 wire if you want the switch to be brighter when turning it on. Your switch may or may not come with an additonal bulb for pin 3 and does not need to be wired aka optional.
Wire Pin 4/5 to any other switches with illumination ie Econ, VSA, emer button. They will have two wires for illu. Doesnt matter which pin goes to which wire as long as its wired in a parallel manner, Pin 4 to A, Pin 5 to B or Pin 4 to B, Pin 5 to A
Here is my layout for the switch with notes for you that I made and used a while back for my illumination kit I did. I think this is the first time I uploaded this and will put it on my Build Thread Front page after this post.
Break it down into 3 steps.
Wire Pin 1/2 between/in the circuit you want to turn on and off
Wire Pin 3 to Pin 2 wire if you want the switch to be brighter when turning it on. Your switch may or may not come with an additonal bulb for pin 3 and does not need to be wired aka optional.
Wire Pin 4/5 to any other switches with illumination ie Econ, VSA, emer button. They will have two wires for illu. Doesnt matter which pin goes to which wire as long as its wired in a parallel manner, Pin 4 to A, Pin 5 to B or Pin 4 to B, Pin 5 to A
Here is my layout for the switch with notes for you that I made and used a while back for my illumination kit I did. I think this is the first time I uploaded this and will put it on my Build Thread Front page after this post.
Pauly99to17
Well-Known Member
Take a couple pics.
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- #132
xXCiviXx
Well-Known Member
This is the switch
This is the switch next to the blank
This is the front and back of the switch slot
The issuse is that the switch is bigger than the blank. For the switch to fit and clip into the slot, I have to cut the slot I want to use by about half an inch from the front so the switch will slide in and the clips on the switch will engage the back of the slot. Either that or I have to cut part of the switch off so it has a smaller "diameter" and will slide into the existing slots.
As for wiring... havent gotten that far yet. Just about to start now
This is the switch next to the blank
This is the front and back of the switch slot
The issuse is that the switch is bigger than the blank. For the switch to fit and clip into the slot, I have to cut the slot I want to use by about half an inch from the front so the switch will slide in and the clips on the switch will engage the back of the slot. Either that or I have to cut part of the switch off so it has a smaller "diameter" and will slide into the existing slots.
As for wiring... havent gotten that far yet. Just about to start now
ADExternal
Lvl: 99 Modifier
From the looks of it, I strongly believe the button that will fit in posted picture slot if from the accord. Seems like they changed the slots when they did the refresh.
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- #134
xXCiviXx
Well-Known Member
So if I'm reading this diagram right, the power wire from the add a circuit goes to pin 1, power wire to illumination kit is pin 2. Connect pin 3 to add a circuit for switch light on when switch is on. 4 and 5 are optional for if I want switch light to be on all the time?
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- #135
xXCiviXx
Well-Known Member
So
do I need to buy a new switch to fit my car?
ADExternal
Lvl: 99 Modifier
Pretty much, Pin 4/5 will come on depending what you wire to like if you wire it to ACC Fuse 23, it will be on whenever you turn on your car. If you wire it to the other buttons, it will turn on only when you turn on the park lights along with all the other buttons.
Im actually confused why the switch slots are different. What year and model is your car?
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- #137
xXCiviXx
Well-Known Member
So to wire 4/5 do I connect both pins to add a circuit power positive? Or do I connect one to the power and ground the other?
I have a '13 si coupe
ADExternal
Lvl: 99 Modifier
Think it would be better if you draw a picture of what you mean. Might not be the right terms thats isnt telling me exactly what youre asking.
It should fit unless its the wrong switch. hmmmmm. I found this picture online. Does it look different from this?
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- #139
xXCiviXx
Well-Known Member
Mine looks like this. Pretty much the same. Slots looks a little smaller
