2013 Civic "Premium Audio System" Navigation Stereo Upgrade

ccapital83 said:
in my kicker kx1600.1 owners manual it states this about inputs,
"The KX amplifier has dual input sensitivity differential RCA inputs which will receive either high or low level signals from your car stereo’s source unit. A high-level signal can be run from the source unit’s speaker outputs to the stereo RCA input on the end panel of the amplifier"

does that mean balanced it doesn't say balanced differential it just says differential rca inputs is this the same thing?
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specs on the amp read: "
  • FITÆs lab-grade, balanced differential inputs offer best possible noise rejection"
 
come on where do you see that" I've looked everywhere and that would be awesome. I know the marine series of these is balanced they state that specifically and they look like the same amps but are marine grade the non marine version doesn't specifically state "BALANCED DIFFERENTIAL"
 
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ccapital83 said:
come on where do you see that" I've looked everywhere and that would be awesome. I know the marine series of these is balanced they state that specifically and they look like the same amps but are marine grade the non marine version doesn't specifically state "BALANCED DIFFERENTIAL"
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It would be better to tag @webby or quote him so it shows up on his alerts.
 
ccapital83 said:
come on where do you see that" I've looked everywhere and that would be awesome. I know the marine series of these is balanced they state that specifically and they look like the same amps but are marine grade the non marine version doesn't specifically state "BALANCED DIFFERENTIAL"
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I didn't see this till just now, sorry. I googled the model # for your amp and one of the first...4 results I think had that quote I posted in the "specs" page. It was an audio shop website selling the amps.
 
webby said:
Here I tried it from my phone
http://www.halfpricecaraudio.com/Ki...er-40KX16001-Closeout-KIC13-40KX1600.1-RS.htm

I don't recall if this was the same site, but it says the same. Specs tab
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yea sonic does also man I wish it were true :( I do appreciate your help though I think those are just errors my the company's selling them because the zx line before the kx were balanced diffs and the marine line of kx are. Guess I'll have to test it to find out. On a side note if I get kicker IQ amp it doesnt really matter because of its dsp features it has right? the iq1000.1
 
tel: 405-624-8510
Why not just call kicker and ask? They could probably tell you in 2 seconds if that is an error or which amp has balanced differentials?
 
webby said:
tel: 405-624-8510
Why not just call kicker and ask? They could probably tell you in 2 seconds if that is an error or which amp has balanced differentials?
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They avoided the question twice just changed the subject after I asked I'll just test it.............
 
Hillstones said:
You are correct. Use the wiring diagram from this link, which identifies the factory amp input and output harnesses. http://9thcivic.com/forum/threads/2012-civic-audio-wiring-guide-pinouts-for-factory-radio.5916/

The 24-pin connector at the factory amplifier is the pre-amp input signal to the amp from the stereo head unit. Look at pins A5 and A17 which are the subwoofer positive and negative wires. Cut those wires from the harness and splice an RCA plug onto them. You can buy an RCA plug with spliced wiring here: http://www.crutchfield.com/p_136XDCLR2S/JL-Audio-XD-CLRAIC2-SW.html?tp=1694

A subwoofer is a mono channel. Since you are keeping the factory amp for the front and rear speakers, I assume you are buying a mono-channel amp for your subwoofer. The single channel amp will have one RCA input and one speaker output for the subwoofer. The subwoofer setting on the stereo will still control the subwoofer level since you are using the subwoofer output from the factory stereo. Hope that helps.
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What wire would you need to ground out to get rid of the not being able to do certain things on the indash while the car is moving anyone know?


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RTG210 said:
What wire would you need to ground out to get rid of the not being able to do certain things on the indash while the car is moving anyone know?


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Not that simple from what others have said. It talks to the ecu to read speed/gear info.
 
RTG210 said:
What wire would you need to ground out to get rid of the not being able to do certain things on the indash while the car is moving anyone know?
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What Webby said above, it is not a simple task, and please do not do that. No one should disable the safety features that prevent distracted driving. Read the current news about that horrible accident in Texas in which the 20-something admitted to texting while driving when he went over the center line and hit the church bus head-on, killing 13 people. He will be going to prison for vehicular manslaughter...for a very long time. He just ruined his life. Use the voice recognition, it does work.
 
Hillstones said:
What Webby said above, it is not a simple task, and please do not do that. No one should disable the safety features that prevent distracted driving. Read the current news about that horrible accident in Texas in which the 20-something admitted to texting while driving when he went over the center line and hit the church bus head-on, killing 13 people. He will be going to prison for vehicular manslaughter...for a very long time. He just ruined his life. Use the voice recognition, it does work.
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Yes I am aware of the consequences of being an idiot driver however the reason I ask is simply if I'm driving and a friend wants to connect a Bluetooth device they can't... or any other feature some other person in my car would like to access while I'm driving that has that safety feature. I figured it was probably hard as hell when I saw it goes off speed and not parking break. I would also like to figure out a way to be able to mirror my iPhone on there without having to jailbreak it for instances when I wanted to watch a video in my car if I'm sitting waiting somewhere or something. Seems I can only do so through the launcher and there are no apps on there for such things.


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twelch830 said:
I figured I'd come back and let everyone know of my experiences with this as most people seem to be confused as I was myself. I used the Rockford Fosgate balanced line driver and spliced that into the pre amp signal, above the brake pedal, the harness coming from the headunit, I too thought it was confusing with the shielding and such but after messing around under there for awhile I've finally got everything how I think it should be installed. I can't remember the coding exactly for the wires I used but as you can see in the picture I tapped into the light pink and light blue wires, for the pre amp signal. Set the gain appropriately...View attachment 51468
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Hello,
I want to do the exact same but I have 2 10" soundstream subs and a planet audio class d mono amp. I have the Rf-bld line driver. Questions on install, I am a novice.
1) What did you do with the shielding wire?
2) Where did you run your power wire through for your amp? I have the NVX 0 g wire.
3) You simply spliced into the wires between the amp / headunit? That gives you the preamp signal? So I could do it without even having to unbolt the amp and getting back underneath there any deeper.

Thanks Jd 15' si sedan
 
seagullfb6 said:
Hello,
I want to do the exact same but I have 2 10" soundstream subs and a planet audio class d mono amp. I have the Rf-bld line driver. Questions on install, I am a novice.
1) What did you do with the shielding wire?
2) Where did you run your power wire through for your amp? I have the NVX 0 g wire.
3) You simply spliced into the wires between the amp / headunit? That gives you the preamp signal? So I could do it without even having to unbolt the amp and getting back underneath there any deeper.

Thanks Jd 15' si sedan
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Basically I spliced into the light blue and light pink wire which is the signal from the headunit for the subwoofer. Those wires are pre amp so doing so you negate all the shitty crossovers in the stock amp for the best, most unrestricted sound. Splicing those wires gives you pre amp signal yes, then just wire into the rf bld add ur rcas and run to your amp like a regular after market headunit would. For mine I ran the power wire through the fender there's a diy on it here somewhere. I used 2 ga on mine. Gotta say I love how the signal comes through it's just like an aftermarket headunit great sound unrestricted hz and super loud. Still haven't turned mine all the way up yet cause I gotta do the big 3 but my quarter panels shake and my wipers flex lol
 
Thanks for the quick reply.
Couple more questions because I am trying to get this all figured out before starting.
1) Where did you run your remote wire?
2) Are you still using your stock amp for remaining stock speakers/tweeters?
Here is a picture of my stock amp wires. Do you see the 2 wires I need to splice into?20170424_145822.jpg

I also bought a good capacitor instead of the big 3 upgrade.
 
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20170424_185849.jpg
Stock amp still runs all the speakers, and for the remote turn on I used the 12v accessory
 
Twelch,
Approx how many ft of RCA cable did you need to reach the trunk? And did you run that through the driver side or glovebox passenger?
Did your 2ga power wire fit through the grommet in the fender? I am using 0 ga and I think I will need to buy a 0ga grommet from amazon.

I have 13ft of RCA cable.
 
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