Official 'What did you do to your car today?' Thread

I was looking at the floor mats....I need a new driver's floor mat (previous owner wore a heel hole into mine and the Si emblem has come off) but they're not sold individually.
 
I could go for either or. They look good; but I'm not sure I'd say better than the original 9th Gen wheels.
 
AlmosN8kd said:
I was looking at the floor mats....I need a new driver's floor mat (previous owner wore a heel hole into mine and the Si emblem has come off) but they're not sold individually.
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I think I have a set of barely used mats floating around in the garage. Message me if you are interested.
 
Im gunna get an rv6 catted dp but is the “4-8 weeks lead time” forreals everywhere!? otherwise i gotta wait for a used one to pop up?
 
wonder if it would be worth it to just upload a basemap, actually get it professionally tuned with the flashpro only, or just wait so its a big noticeable difference
 
JesseFB6 said:
wonder if it would be worth it to just upload a basemap, actually get it professionally tuned with the flashpro only, or just wait so its a big noticeable difference
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If it'll be awhile before you get the DP you could just get tuned now. Most tuners will do the "retune" far cheaper than the initial tune.
 
JesseFB6 said:
wonder if it would be worth it to just upload a basemap, actually get it professionally tuned with the flashpro only, or just wait so its a big noticeable difference
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Normally, I'd say it is best to ease into power upgrades so you can get a feel for the car at incremental stages vice one big jump (and potentially lose control of the car at some unexpected time as you're not used to it). Although, if just a downpipe is all you're adding, the net change is probably low overall. However, I would not recommend running a base map for an extended period of time as there may be efficiency mismatches in the tune which may not be self-evident but could cause reliability issues with your car (running rich and/or lean, ignition timing is off, etc., these can result in issues over the long term). So, in the end, for this particular case, I think it comes down to cost; as fahnix said, getting it tuned the first time tends to be the most expensive as everything has to be worked out; starting with a basically stock N/A car should help reduce some of that cost as the tuner will have a good baseline of what the car is doing with the factory ECU; then, it is just a matter of replicating that (and perhaps making slight improvements to timing and/or fueling to squeeze out a few more WHP) with the aftermarket ECU while you wait for your downpipe. Then, after adding it, it will likely be less than an hour of dyno time to tweak the map again for the changes in efficiency from the new exhaust (or other mods you do down the road).
 
Noted.
i think i will go with a tune for now. i ordered the dp this morning. i spoke with someone at rv6 and he said it will indeed be around 7weeks till arrival
 
Quick question, does anyone know if a fuse should should be aiming downwards (picture 1) or upwards (picture 2).

Fuse box is from a 10th civic but this question applies to 2012-2015 civics. I dont have those lightbulb testers to check at this moment. I have it pointed downward but worried something may blow up.

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i thought the way those taps were designed the accessory you were adding would only work in one of those two orientations?
 
Honestly, I've use those add-a-circuit things for both my Civic and my Pilot in both directions without issue. I think only one time did one of the circuits I connected to did it matter as it wouldn't supply power in the other direction for some odd reason. In the end, all you're doing is installing a jumper/remote fuse, so it shouldn't make a difference electrically.
 
JesseFB6 said:
Noted.
i think i will go with a tune for now. i ordered the dp this morning. i spoke with someone at rv6 and he said it will indeed be around 7weeks till arrival
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Just be aware that adding a dp in CA will mean never passing smog again, unless by some miracle the part is sanctioned by CARB. There's even a new law on the books (as of about a week ago) that any professional tune or reflash (even with zero bolt-ons) that afters the original ECU will automatically cause it to fail a test. Or is there already a way to get around that?
 
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