2015 si sedan

Dad said:
Just going back to your autobody days! That's part of the game :rotfl:
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i dont want to go back to those days lol. worst part is im pretty sure ive got a scale at home to weigh the damn stuff proper.
 
Finished wet sanding the back with 600. It's flat now. I'm not sure if I clear coat it now if the dull spots will come out shiny. When I out the epoxy on, these spots look the same as the rest. My issue is I refuse to pour the epoxy on for several reason so I cannot get it perfectly flat without sanding.

I'll end up spraying the back only once I'm done sanding it all and see how it turns out. That way I'll only have to sand one side down if it doesn't look good.
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Janz3n said:
im debating not putting the badges back on, but that would leave two options. plug the holes some how before putting the resin on or rivet blank metal back on. thoughts ? the amount of work to make this nice is making me hate password jdm.
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if you're going to keep the car do what you want, assuming it's affordable. Personally wouldn't do it if you were going to sell in a couple years. (You know, sell it to buy a Type R)
 
Bruce Bartlow said:
if you're going to keep the car do what you want, assuming it's affordable. Personally wouldn't do it if you were going to sell in a couple years. (You know, sell it to buy a Type R)
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I was talking about the holes in the gurney flap, not the badges on the car. That's way too much work.
Bruce Bartlow said:
Yep, lookin' real good. Using a 600 wet/dry or what?
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I've been using a combo of wet and dry varying grits. 120 to get rid of all my bad work and wet 600 for anything worth saving before clear.
webby said:
what's the situation with the hole there by the thumb? Is it missing fiber there, or is that just how thick the clear or epoxy is around that spot compared to the low area?
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That's where the password jdm bad goes. I drilled out the rivets to remove them to make this job easier.
 
Janz3n said:
of course i decided to try and touch out a spot on it yesterday but it had started to get hard when i did it and i messed up part of it. have to sand it down with 120grit again and start over. i also have been mixing the epoxy by eye and not by weight so the first one was too much hardener and it started to smoke in the container and harden real fast. second time i dont think i put enough in and its not hard in the thicker areas yet. i dont know why i make this harder for myself.
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Oh yeah.....welcome to resins! I have a cheap little scale that I use to weigh out the resin and hardener. I still have messed it up plenty of times. I have melted mixing containers before, lol.

You also have to remember temperatures while it cures. If it the temp drops, the resin will turn out with a jelly consistency and is a ***** to remove.
 
Janz3n said:
Finished wet sanding the back with 600. It's flat now. I'm not sure if I clear coat it now if the dull spots will come out shiny. When I out the epoxy on, these spots look the same as the rest. My issue is I refuse to pour the epoxy on for several reason so I cannot get it perfectly flat without sanding.

I'll end up spraying the back only once I'm done sanding it all and see how it turns out. That way I'll only have to sand one side down if it doesn't look good.
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If you wet the part with water it will give you a pretty close visual of how the part will come out after a clear coat.

Yeah, pouring method = sanding. There is no way around that unless you vaccum bag the part.....and thats a whole other set of issues to deal with.

The part is looking 100 times better than before.....so there's that, lol :cheerleader:


Looks like ****-ArseJDM only used 2 layers of CF cloth as the part looks super thin. Then they cheaped out and not use enough resin or didn't care to do multiple layers of resins.
 
i thought i was gonna melt the container i was using so i put it in a tin. that thing was hard in 10 minutes.
i got the rest of the resin off with a combo of pastic tools, razor blades and 120grit sand paper.
my mother inlaw took our scale to work so i couldnt lay any epoxy down last night. im not messing up the last coat because i dont want to work on this anymore.
 
This is going to go really good or really bad. Used a scale to measure the epoxy and hardener. Used the epoxy block to support it from the time I used too much hardener.
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Turned out real good except for the one side i just had to **** up by trying to make one last pass with the brush when it was too tacky. should be able to wet sand it out then clear.
 
Dad said:
Have the painter throw on like 2.5 coats of clear so you have some room to buff
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im use spray paint clear. im going to try one side and see if it turns out good. if it doesnt i'll go back to the body shop.
 
So this was what I ****** up on last night.
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Sanded it all with 120, 320 dry. Then 600 wet. Clear coated with spray paint. I think it turned out pretty good. Would a pro paint job be better? Probably but it's ready to go on the car and I don't have to worry about them not doing it right.
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Ended up sanding through a bit of carbon here and there but I'm happy. I ended up using brake clean to prep for the clear. I notice the wax and grease remover wasn't evaporating at all. I think that may have been the main issue with the epoxy as well.

Sunset tonight was pretty amazing.
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