Suspension help!

Okay, the arms are in. Im used to the one nut arms so i need some help on this. So this is pretty much one bolt inserted into a larger bolt with a nut on top and bottom. So which do I use for camber adjustment. Or can i Use both?

Also, ow would i go about adjusting while the arms are installed? I hear this is possible. Which nuts/bolts should be used?


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phil136 I responded to your other picture. Your thinking about the adjustments to hard. Once installed turn the center nut, being one side is right hand threads and the other is left, turning the center nut only will cause the bushing side and arm side to move to or away from each other, then use one nut to lock onto the arm directly and the bushing side nut will lock to the center adjustment nut.
 
Also, you want to start with equal thread amounts on either side of the center adjustment nut.
 
phil136 : Get some anti-seize on there before you install!!! Seriously! Or you will be one sorry dude in about 6 months. That stuff will seize right up on ya.

Go down to the local auto zone/pep boys and pick up the Gray Permatex Anti Seize.
Check the label and make sure it's zinc based. Do not get copper based. Do not use graphite in water/alcohol.

Those arms are a steel insert into a steel insert into an aluminum arm. The chance of cold welding, galling, galvanic corrosion, pressure boundary cracking/fissures and other metallurgical nasties is really high. Not to mention the ubiquitous rust.

Slather that stuff on there and you should be good.
 
Nix said:
phil136 : Get some anti-seize on there before you install!!! Seriously! Or you will be one sorry dude in about 6 months. That stuff will seize right up on ya.

Go down to the local auto zone/pep boys and pick up the Gray Permatex Anti Seize.
Check the label and make sure it's zinc based. Do not get copper based. Do not use graphite in water/alcohol.

Those arms are a steel insert into a steel insert into an aluminum arm. The chance of cold welding, galling, galvanic corrosion, pressure boundary cracking/fissures and other metallurgical nasties is really high. Not to mention the ubiquitous rust.

Slather that stuff on there and you should be good.
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I bought the copper based today, they didnt have any other one. Is it that bad? Ill just buy another tube tomorrow... worthless o'rielly autoparts.

Youre talkin about applying it the bolt threaded into the arm? I applied the lithium grease to that, do i need to wipe that off then>????
 
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Yes. Take the copper stuff back. With the steel into aluminum the chance of galvanic corrosion is high with the copper base.

Wipe off the grease if you can. Don't worry too much about it. If you had installed with grease instead of anti-sieze you would be better off than having used nothing.

Look for the gray permatex. I believe it is the Zinc base in that color package.
 
I’m only going to give half a story about a very complicated topic which has lots of ifs and buts.

Be very, very careful about using any ‘anti-seize’ compound on critical applications. I’m not going to attempt to define ‘critical’ or to recommend any products, but be aware that in hot, wet conditions, many of the organic ingredients of these compounds can break down to produce organic acids. These can initiate stress corrosion cracking (intergranular) of steel fasteners. It is true that hot, wet conditions alone can result in SCC, but it is much more likely when lubricants are present, and worst of the lot are compounds containing moly disulphide or copper. This is a big problem on things like valves on high pressure/high temperature steam or water systems, where many potentially dangerous failures have occurred. Fasteners have become wet through steam leakage, cracks have initiated and propagated, and the fasteners have failed. Many companies in the power generation industry have strict controls on the use of lubricants for this reason.

If you can find them Nickel based anti-sieze are very very good for almost everything and generally don't cause any of the problems that copper/zinc/other metal based compounds can. The problem is that there are not a lot of Nickel based compounds readily available and the ones that I do know of are quite expensive. To the point that just buying another set of $150 camber arms makes more sense at that point. If you were racing a Ferrari or something high end and the arms were like $1000 then you would be into that sort of stuff.
 
Nix said:
I’m only going to give half a story about a very complicated topic which has lots of ifs and buts.

Be very, very careful about using any ‘anti-seize’ compound on critical applications. I’m not going to attempt to define ‘critical’ or to recommend any products, but be aware that in hot, wet conditions, many of the organic ingredients of these compounds can break down to produce organic acids. These can initiate stress corrosion cracking (intergranular) of steel fasteners. It is true that hot, wet conditions alone can result in SCC, but it is much more likely when lubricants are present, and worst of the lot are compounds containing moly disulphide or copper. This is a big problem on things like valves on high pressure/high temperature steam or water systems, where many potentially dangerous failures have occurred. Fasteners have become wet through steam leakage, cracks have initiated and propagated, and the fasteners have failed. Many companies in the power generation industry have strict controls on the use of lubricants for this reason.

If you can find them Nickel based anti-sieze are very very good for almost everything and generally don't cause any of the problems that copper/zinc/other metal based compounds can. The problem is that there are not a lot of Nickel based compounds readily available and the ones that I do know of are quite expensive. To the point that just buying another set of $150 camber arms makes more sense at that point. If you were racing a Ferrari or something high end and the arms were like $1000 then you would be into that sort of stuff.
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Why would they even release this most common copper based anti-seize for automotive use.

I hope the lithium grease wont interact somehow with the anti-seize
 
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They make stuff cause they don't think people will care or think of that as the cause for parts failure down the line. Most guys wrenching on their car aren't engineers and don't have a machining background/experience. Also if you are using the copper base, there usually won't be any problems unless it's an area that gets both wet and hot. The camber arms will definitely get wet and heat from the exhaust is going to be an issue on that side.

Also anything is better than nothing. If all you had was copper or grease you would probably never have an issue and it would be far better to use either one than nothing at all.

The grease shouldn't cause you any problems. Since you haven't installed, grab the gray stuff and you can tell your friends why and sound super smart. Hahahah.
 
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No problem man. I love this stuff. It's like being able to use algebra and crap you learned in school for something useful finally!
 
Nix said:
No problem man. I love this stuff. It's like being able to use algebra and crap you learned in school for something useful finally!
Click to expand...

Its always gratifying to apply your knowledge. And share it ;D
 
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That 77134 Nickel based is the one you want. Its also listed as 77124. From permatex.

I should have specified better. I forgot that all the permatex bottles are gray... duh...

Also I didn't check... my Zinc base is a Loctite anti sieze not Permatex. It's a 1 lb can that runs like $50. The permatex blend will work just fine.

Is the copper stuff you have straight copper or is it blended also? Again my caveat of the half a story with a lot of ifs and buts.

Thanks phil. Hah, I shoulda just walked to the closet and looked but i swore it was gray permatex not loctite.
Part Number: 77124
 
My mistake:

I have GRAY LOCTITE ZINC BASED ANTI SIEZE

GRAY PERMATEX IS A BLEND.

It is also available in a nickel base, which is sweet. But the Loctite brand Zinc stuff is carried at Wal-Mart.
 
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