The official "Ask a Detailer Thread"

Halogens are good for general lighting but you will want other lights for checking your finish and holgens don't show some defcts as well as other lights.

I have a Brinkmann Dual Xenon and Finex TK15 for inspecting my work.....I also just picked up the LED Lenser H14 to use while I work. ;)
 
Hehehe yeah. Just use dawn dish soap and run them under warm water in the sink. Massage the soap into them and help push the stuff out. Rinse them until there are no more suds. Put them on a rack to dry where air can circulate around them. Make sure the velcro side is on top so water doesn't sit in that part.

Also you will need 5-6 of each pad to do the entire car. Use about 1 pad per panel.

Hood, Roof, Drivers Door, Pass Door, R & L Front fenders, R & L rear fenders, and maybe 1 more for the trunk & rear end.
You might be able to do the roof and trunk with one. depends on how large the car is.

You will also need to clean the spent product out/off the pad while you are using it. It will build up on the surface after each small section you do. It'll be obvious to you once you start when you need to clean it. There are pad cleaner brushes available. You can use that or something similar. Spin the pad slowly and pull the brush across to clean it.
 
I don't know if this has already been covered, but I would like a DIY on how to clean under the hood. It would be great to have a picture with arrows pointing to places that should not get wet. Should they be covered? Would like to see a picture of what kind of brush you use and what kind of products etc. I've never washed under the hood before. Thanks!
 
Thanks! I would really appreciate a photo of our particular engine bay with all of the parts to be careful with and what to cover etc.
 
Pauly99to17

I know the feeling pauly but, for the stock honda engine bay on your car you really only need to worry about covering the battery & terminals and covering the alternator. Everything else is pretty well sealed up. Aluminum foil works nicely with a plastic bag and rubber band over it.

If you don't want to spray it down with a hose you can also carefully wipe everything down with a wet towel or sponge. That's a pretty safe way to go. You won't have high pressure water trying to work it's way into things. That article is pretty complete on products that work very well.

If i get a chance to clean one of the 9th gens ill take some pics and post them. I should be doing an 8th gen R18 very soon. The engine bay is almost identical.
 
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Make sure water doesn't get down the recessed holes for the plugs...that is probably the thing I'd be most careful of.
 
Yeah been looking at the Mothers Synthetic Wax & Meguiars NXT Generation Tech Wax 2.0 haven't made any decisions yet. After reading different reviews it really seems like personal preference whether people want to use paste or liquid wax. So if I understand this correctly to 'fully' detail the outside of your car its basically wash, clay bar, polish, wax? What is the polish supposed to do between the clay bar and the wax remove scratches or add the shine?
 
Polishing removes the scratches and swirl marks. The better the surface prep the better that step comes out. You definitely need proper equipment to tackle polishing.

A very easy to use, great looking, long lasting, "hybrid" wax that I like to recommend is Collinite Insulator Wax. Also known as Collinite 845.
 
Just detailed my car the other day I washed Clayed and used meguiars #21. On my next day off I'm planning on washing and using megiuers #26..my question is this a good idea or should I just leave it alone..btw I am letting the sealant cute for 24 hours
 
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You should be fine. I don't know how much shine it would add but if you like doing it then do it! Wax over sealant is pretty common. Sometimes certain combinations look better than others.

Just make sure the soap you are going to use is labeled as a maintenance wash soap and specifically says it won't strip wax or you may be undoing some of the work you just did with the sealant.
 
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