The official "Ask a Detailer Thread"

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Do I need to use 'paint sealant' before waxing since it is going to be the first time I have waxed the car? Heard if its first time waxing car you want to use 'paint sealant'.
 
stormtrooper said:
Do I need to use 'paint sealant' before waxing since it is going to be the first time I have waxed the car? Heard if its first time waxing car you want to use 'paint sealant'.
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Late post, but paint sealants last longer than wax. So paint protection will last longer using a paint sealant. Wax just keeps the car looking shiny only for a short time.
 
Petroleum based isn't good for any rubber material. It will soften the rubber.
 
I always recommend this stuff: It works great on black trim too. Especially that front cowl piece that always fades.
http://www.detailedimage.com/Optimum-OPT-M36/Tire-Shine-P282/17-oz-S1/




The Meguiars stuff is not a silicone base like some of the others but it will turn your tires brown and sling off onto the paint. Once on the paint it can penetrate in and leave stains. The dressing is suspended in a type of petroleum base that can and will damage paint. You probably won't notice it as bad on a dark color though. It will also turn your tires brown when it wears off. It's a type of drying damage done to the rubber of the tire as the solvents evaporate.

Megs does make a better tire product but you usually can't find it at pepboys/autozone.
For tires try their D170 Hyper Dressing. Its much better in terms of looks, protection, better for your tires, and better for your paint.

I use the Optimum Tire Shine. Its good on black trim too.


Some notes I have on that stuff..... check your bottle of tire dressing.

Meguiar's G75...ENDURANCE HIGH GLOSS TIRE PROTECTANT

Section 3: COMPOSITION/INFORMATION ON INGREDIENTS
NAME.....................................CAS#............................%
-polydimethylsiloxane..........63148-62-9.....................60-80

-Distillates, petroleum,
middle, hydrotreated..........64742-46-7........................10-20

-Distillates, petroleum,
light, hydrotreated.............64742-47-8........................10-20

-Conditioners.......................proprietary.... ....................1-5
__________________________________________________ __________________________________________________


It's said that a tire dressing that contains polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS)...
Is a "better" tire dressing than one that contains: Dimethyl Silicone (DMS)

But then again:
A Dimethyl Silicone Emulsion is a water dispersable form of a polydimethylsiloxane and silicone dioxidemixture.
 
While I would agree that water based is the better option over solvent based, the browning effect is called "blooming" and the dressing is not the cause. The below is taken from 303's web page, but there is lots of other info on the web about it. The amount of blooming varies between tires manufactures. :)

Tire manufacturers use waxes to protect against ozone. When tires are in use (regularly running up and down the road for example) they flex. Flexing causes the protective waxes to migrate to the surface where they form a physical barrier between the air (ozone and oxygen) and the tire polymer. This process ... the waxes migrating to the surface of the tire during flexing...is called "blooming".
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Another...
http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums/showthread.php?41035-Brown-Tires



Rasky
 
Ah, thanks rasky. I thought the browning was a type of dry rotting effect. I swear I had read that somewhere and that it was caused by the solvent base penetrating the rubber. I had it on my old tires and I could not get the "brown" stuff to scrub off for the life of me. Must have been my Dunlops themselves then.
 
Nix said:
Ah, thanks rasky. I thought the browning was a type of dry rotting effect. I swear I had read that somewhere and that it was caused by the solvent base penetrating the rubber. I had it on my old tires and I could not get the "brown" stuff to scrub off for the life of me. Must have been my Dunlops themselves then.
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Yeah, I used to think it was the solvent based dressings too...I'm sure it's possible that some of them accelerate the blooming effect, but that's pure speculation on my part. Over the years I've seen some tires that rarely got brown looking and some were just terrible. My OEM Tires on my current Acura have very little blooming and my wife's tires on her Accord are terrible, both get the same water based dressing...she does drive more miles than I do though.

Cleaning the brown off can often require several cleanings with a good APC and stiff brush, especially with some of those long lasting solvent based dressings dealers use!!! I'll basically repeat the cleaning until no more brown comes off.
 
just got a buffer what is a good polish to use with it?
 
hahahah omg can of worms question. There are tons out there. Which buffer did you end up getting? If you're just getting started with it, it's usually not a bad idea to start out by applying wax just to get a feel for it.

I used chemical guys blacklight the first few times I used my buffer. It's a great product anyway and it's nearly non-abrasive so there is no polishing action. I never saw any correction with it.

You can't go wrong with Meguiars 205. It's a finishing polish but on Honda paint it really works very very well. Especially if your paint is not in horrible condition. I don't think you should need anything stronger yet. If you do Meguiars 105 is a very strong polish that works great with 205 after. They are both available in smaller 8oz size bottles too so that you can try them out without buying more than you can use up in case you don't like them. You can control a lot of the "cut" by varying the pad you are using also. I like the Lake Country Orange Light Cutting Pads and their White Pads. They make a Hydrotech pad in a red Crimson color that works pretty well for finishing.

Paint prep is key to a good polish. Clay bar and decon. Pick up some Iron X especially living in the NE. You won't believe how many iron particles are jammed in your paint. I like the iron X paste but the spray provides quicker coverage. Up to you.


EDIT: If you have the PC7424 you will need to turn it up to 5-6, almost max setting to get correction out of it I find. Tape your trim.
 
I thought Iron-X is really meant for wheels.
 
I used Tar-X and Iron-X yesterday before I clay barred. I wasn't overly impressed with the Tar-X but the Iron-X was amazing. I really didn't think I had that much contaminates on my paint until it went to work. I'm very happy with the results.
 
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